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Random engine Info:
RZ350 Land Says: "A Yamaha Banshee Clutch cable will work on an RZ if you have an old adjuster laying around
you can shorten about half an inch. It may work without making it shorter. Just screw the adjuster as far in as it will go
and put the cable on with a little tension. The only difference between cables is that the Banshee inner cable is about half
an inch shorter. This is better anyway because your adjuster isn't almost screwed all the way out for correct slack. Why?
Because a Banshee Clutch Cable is 13 dollars. A Yamaha genuine RZ 350 clutch cable is like 35-45 dollars. I just broke a Genuine
Yamaha clutch cable after 1 year of use.
OVERHEATING
Lets make it simple. If your RZ is overheating but not leaking.... Your head gasket is
defective in some way to the point where combustion from the cylinder is leaking through the head gasket, causing the coolant
system to become more pressurized and puke coolant out of the overflow bottle. Or the thermostat is not opening. Or....the
water pump impeller shaft gear (little plastic gear that runs off the crank) is broken. There is an easy way to rule out the
water pump being the culprit. Drain 75% of the coolant. Take off the little plastic cover on the right side cover to expose
the water pump plate. Remove those 5 screws that hold that plate on. Now start the bike and see if that circular thing spins.
If it doesn't, that plastic gear is broken on the other side. You will have to remove the whole rightside cover.(oil pan)
to replace it. Another possibility is the rad cap, but this would be the most rare it seems. Note: RZ350 runs and warms up
just fine without running a thermostat. Nobody rides in cold temps anyway. RZ350 Land
RZ350 ENGINE/GEARBOX SERVICE FOR DUMMIES
Tools needed:
Metric Socket Set: both short & deep dwell sockets/extensions $30-$75
Breaker Bar/Lever $7
24mm Socket (right side crank nut) $4
32mm Socket (clutch basket nut) $4
Impact Driver (thing you hit with hammer to loosen stubborn screws/nuts) $10
HAYNES YAMAHA RD/RZ 350 YPVS Twins Owners Workshop Manual (Haynes #1158) ISBN 1 85010 879 X (ebay) $5-$40
Step One: Drain Oil/Collant, Remove Kickstarter/ Right Side Oil Pan Engine Cover.
Step Two: Remove Kick Start Mechanism/Remove Clutch Basket Cover and Plates
Step Three: Important! Put bike in gear and use your 24&32mm sockets and breaker bar to remove the 24mm crank nut and
32mm clutch boss center nut. You want to be stepping on the rear break while you loosen these nuts because they are tight.
So do this before you pull the chain and engine out to loosen these nuts because they become complex to loosen when engine
is out of bike. Loosen(not remove) 24mm crank nut first.
Step Four: Then remove Chain/Motor mounts/Cables/Wire Plugs/ETC and then pull the engine out of the right side. Wrap frame
with towells so ya dont nick/scratch it. Once you have the engine on the bench remove left side cover,flywheel & Stator.
When you have those off you can remove the gearbox case bolts from the bottom. After they are all removed you can turn the
engine upside down and split the cases in half and prop open the back side just enough to reach in and gently pull out the
GEAR CLUSTER (transmission). And yes the cylinders are still on. With cases propped open enough and engine upside down the
gear cluster (3 axles things with gears on em) will pull right out. Don't pry cases open and damage mating surfaces! Remember
how cluster was in there so you know how it slips back in. Take Pictures?
Service the gear cluster/Shift Forks, clean up case surfaces where they mate to each other(where they split apart in halves)
Install serviced gear cluster. Put new sealer(Three Bond 1104) where the case halves meet, seal her up and put her back together
in reverse order of above.
Thats the half ass quick way to service the gear cluster. Most people would totally split the cases after cylinders and
pistons were removed. Might as well service and check everything out while its on the bench. The Haynes Shop Manual Will address
any other issues you have during disassembly and assembly. Nice step by step pictures too.
Take all suspected worn items to a dirbike shop and ask them to analyze their condition. Or take pics and ask people
on here. Even if ya don't want to do it all your self at least pull the engine yourself and do all ya can. Mechanic Labor
is $65+ an hour and doing all you can will save you hundreds. Just take yer time and don't pry or beat anything loose. There
is a do it your self technique for every action while disassembling/assembling these things. Just be patient and ask. You
can do it! RZ350LAND.....
Want to know your elevation for jetting and compression calculations? Click HERE and enter your Zip code to get it.
YAMAHA/HAYNES RZ350 Left Crank Seal Microfiche/diagram ERROR
Attention Builders! Yamaha has made an error with the left
rotor side crank seal in the early 80's RZ350 31K microfiche. This error is also in the Genuine Yamaha Shop Manual
and in The Haynes Manual. The error is that the crank seal is facing the wrong way.
The little nubs (castelated ridges) SHOULD BE FACING THE BEARING! When we look at air cooled RD microfiche,Yamaha TZ
microfiche,later 1WW RZ350 YPVS and even the 2000+ Yamaha Banshee microfiche, the little nubs are ALWAYS facing
the bearing! The picture below shows the PROPER way it should be installed.(arrow)
COOLANT:
Without going into too much science distilled WATER is the best coolant for your engine. I myself have learned that there
are alot of cases where what is advertised, is not the best thing for your engine. Its really easy to get caught up into big
claims and advertising statements. Science dictates that WATER has better "thermal properties" than the best Anti freeze or
Racing Coolant. Not even the best coolant can transfer heat as well as water. This is called "Thermal Conductivity".
The ability to transfer heat from one area to another. When you use Anti Freeze instead of water you are losing up to
50 percent of your thermal conductivity. Amazing isnt it? You are losing half of your heat transfer ability by using anti
freeze or racing coolant!
But,
water is extremely corrosive and can have bad things in it that can reap havoc on coolant passages. And it will!, real quick. So
what is the happy medium trade off? Use pure bottled/distilled water along with a "corrosion inhibitor". The more corrosion
inhibitor you use with WATER the less effective your heat transfer is. There is no use keeping Prestone in business just
to make your engine run hotter. Heat transfer is very important to a liquid cooled 2 cycle engine. No wonder my
temp gauge read higher when I was using 100 percent coolant then with water. If it says on the label it keeps things cooler
than other coolants, then it probably has more water in it. But the cost is more. makes sense don't it. WATER, ask
for it by name....RZ350 LAND
Replacing Water Pump Seal and Bearing...
YOU NEED:
RZ Parts:
W-P bearing 93306-30003. $12--OR --Also known as 9300Z. That means it's a 9300 series
bearing with a seal on one side(Z). Available at a bearing shop for 12 bucks. (10mmID-35mmOD-11mmW)
Oil Seal 93103-10168
or 93103-10113 $21
Water Pump Gasket: 3GG-12428-00 $7
Crank Case Cover Gasket 3GG-15461-00 $10???
Banshee:
If they can't get RZ.
Bearing 93306-30002
Oil Seal 93103-10147
W/P Gasket 3GG-12428
Crankcase
Cover Gasket 3GG-15461-01
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Parts IS Parts!!!!
Reed Spacers?
What are they and
why? The idea of reed spacers is to pull the reed back enough to uncover the boost port, gaining flow
and therefore horsepower, any further and all you do is lower the crankcase compression, not desirable in any of the RD,LC,YPVS
models, in fact more crankcase compression makes more power....IF your boost port is clear of the reed stops, then you do
not need reed spacers! worst example has to be the RD350, the boost port is badly masked by the reed stops.
My Opinion and experience: Reed spacers transform the powerband of the engine and
spread it out over a wider range. What was once a kick in the seat of the pants at 6500 RPM is transformed into smooth
strong power throughout the pre power band range. Usable power but no kick in the butt. Sold Em' If you want to smooth
out the powerband on your 2 stroke then just go buy a 4 stroke bike. The Yamaha Power Valve System does a fine job of this
anyway. Thats why it's there.....RZ350 LAND
RZ
Bore Stats:
Piston Size/bore Stock 346cc, 20 over352cc,40 over 358cc,60 over 364cc,80 over 370 cc
Power
Jet Carb Specs.
mikuni VM26SS power jet
1UA-00 carbs N-8(#544) Needle Jet
5L20-2 Needles
Banshee/RZ Nuetral Switch
Cover Oil leak FIX!!!!!!!
WORKING RZ350/Banshee Tech Tip: What is the most popular place a RZ350/Banshee engine leaks oil at? Answer: At the
plastic nuetral switch cover on the left side of the bike by the rear countershaft sprocket.(front sprocket) Even with
a new o ring on the inside of the engine this area it still tends to leak. What happens is the area inside the nuetral
switch (white plastic cover) fills up with oil. And since the white nuetral switch cover has no gasket (consult micro-fiche),...it
leaks.
The FiX! Remove the nuetral switch plastic cover
by the front sprocket. (remove wire first) Be prepared for a tablespoon of gear box oil to follow. Take the plastic cover
and clean it up. Then trace around the plastic cover on some paper. Then free hand draw the area the gasket needs to cover
inside the traced area. It may also give you a good idea if you look at the area the plastic piece covers on the side of a
gear box. Just match it up. I had the old lady do it because she has skills in arts and crafts etc. Get some scissors and
cut out the hole in the center of the gasket. A paper hole punch works great on the bolt holes. I used thin stiff card board.
Like the card board used on cereal boxes. Next: Shoot both sides of your gasket with any spray paint you may have laying around.
One simple light coat will do. This will help preserve the gasket. After that dries coat both sides of that gasket LIGHTLY
with ThreeBond1104 ,yamabond or any sealer you have laying around.Chemical safe stuff that is. You are probably ok without
the sealer but my plan was to make sure it didnt leak again. Note: When you have cut out your gasket it should look like
a typical thermostat gasket you see in cars but smaller.
Update: 1200 miles later and no engine leaks.
Update: 6000 miles and all is well.
UPDATE: 10,000 plus miles still sealing
UPDATE: 11,000 miles I think it may be leaking a drop here and there again.
RZ350 LAND
CLUTCH CREEP SUCKS!
Clutch creep is caused by those little grooves dented into the clutch basket and clutch boss. You see those little grooves
in red I have drawn into the diagram? Those grooves are filed into the clutch basket(left) and clutch boss(right) by the plates
resting on them over time. Pretty soon those grooves get worn deep enough where the clutch plates can't float and slide smooth
over the basket and boss. This makes the clutch hang up in these grooves causing the imfamous "Clutch Creep" or hanging up
or whatever you call it. This causes the bike to still want to move forward a tad even though the clutch lever is pulled in.
It also makes it harder to find nuetral. So matter how much you try to adjust it never gets any better. I even tried filing
the grooves smooth on the basket and boss. It helps but there really only one solution. It's called an aftermarket clutch
basket and boss with genuine Yamaha steel plates. These new trick aftermarket clutch baskets/bosses have a higher
strength metal that does not groove as easilly as the stock parts.
Another cause of clutch creep is warped clutch
plates. Alot of these aftermarket clutch makers don't seem to have their plates up to the same spec as Yamaha GENUINE original
parts. They come warped new right out of the box. Barnett has the worst reputation for this but you won't catch them slipping.
I am sure alot of these aftermarket banshee/RZ clutches have the same reputation. It's not a very good trade off IMO. You
are not gaining any performance with these so called "heavy duty clutches" because the stock RZ clutch is plenty ample in
stock form. A good upgrade for the RZ would be 3 heavy duty springs combined with 3 stock springs used with the stock unwarped
plates. Six heavy duty springs is overkill unless you are drag racing with high h.p. These aftermarket clutches seem to be
a nightmare for most casual street riders. And it really sucks when you buy a new clutch and you get these negative side affects
right out of the box(Warped Plates) Check Info below to select GENUINE YAMAHA CLUTCH PLATES that fit the RZ.....RZ350
LAND
These models use the same CLUTCH friction plates as the RZ350.
The RZ
uses 7 plates. All these models have seven plates or more.(8)
Banshee
DT250 77-79
RD250 73-75
RD350
73-75
RD350LC ALL
XT350 85-97
DT360 74
XS360 76-77
DT400 77-78
FZ400
87-88
RD400 76-79
XS400S/J 77-82
TX500 73-74
FJ600 84-88
FZ600 84-88
XJ600S
92-98
YX600 86-90
YZF R-6 99-01
XJ650 MAXIM 80-83
XJ650L MIDNIGHT 81
XJ650L SECA TURBO
82-83
XJ650R SECA 82
FZ700 87
FZX700 86-87
XJ700 85-86
FZ750 88
FZR750
86
FZR750R/OW01 87-91
XJ750 82-83
XS750 77
XS750 78-79
XV750 89-97
YZF750R
94-98
XJ900 83
FZR1000 87-89
GTS1000 93-94
YZF1000R 97
These models use the same steel clutch paltes as the RZ.
The RZ350
needs 6 of them. The models listed have 6 or more.
Banshee
DT250 77-79
RD250 73-75
RD350
73-75
NOT!!! RD350 LC
DT400 75-76
FZ400 87-88
RD400 76-79
SR500 78-81
XT500
76-81
XT550 82
XT600 84-85
Simple diagram below shows reasons why clutches will creep when stopped and act spuratic when releasing.
GEARBOX OIL
What kind of oil do you use? RZ350LAND uses Rotella T 15W 40. This is why.
ROTELLA T SAE 15W-40 is a universal oil, meeting needs of both 4-stroke gasoline and diesel engines. It has credentials
(API Service Categories SL and CI-4) for lubricating both kinds of engines.
It’s best to consult your owner’s
manual for recommended oil quality. If your engine manufacturer recommends oil meeting any of these API Service Categories,
CF-4, CG-4, CH-4, CI-4, and/or SH, SJ, and SL, or any earlier but obsolete category, then ROTELLA T will lubricate and protect
your engine and wet clutch.
ROTELLA T Multigrade does not contain friction modifiers!!! and it does not comply with
all requirements of ILSAC GF-2 and GF-3 – and that’s why its good for motorcycle use. ROTELLA T does not
have to follow the same industry standards as car/motorcycle oils. Friction modifiers can upset wet clutch operation.
And the ILSAC requirements limit phosphorus content. Diesel engines and other engines with highly loaded valve trains need
extra (compared to passenger car engines) extreme pressure wear protection, which is provided by an additive that contains
phosphorus.
Other reasons to use ROTELLA T Multigrade are its ability to stay in viscosity grade, owing to a unique
shear-stable viscosity index improver additive. And there’s no better oil for wear and deposit control in internal combustion
engines. Last, you can purchase ROTELLA T just about anywhere heavy-duty oil is sold. (WALLY WORLD). Plus, a gallon of ROTELLA
T is cheaper than a quart of motorcycle oil. Plus ROTELLA T has Zinc which is disallowed in motorcycle/car oils. This is trucker
oil (fleet oil). This is 150,000 miles between oil changes oil. And you can afford to change it every weekend if you want!
It has the same sticky feeling on your fingers like Motul/Silkoline, but not as thin. Smells like a truck stop parking lot.
ps. Pure synthetic oil likes to leak out
of a motorcycle gearbox 10 times faster than Rotella.
Update: Years Later. Rotella Lowered it's ZDDP level in Rotella
15W 40. Time to switch to Rotella 5W40 Synthetic or perhaps Harley Davidson 20/50. There are a few out there that still have
high ZDDP levels. Rotella T still has more than a car oil so it's still good stuff, but, if you are into the hobby and science,
better look elsewhere.
 2 Cycle Oil : Tried em all. I have my own special blend. Klotz Supertechniplate with 20% Castor belended with Blendzall
455 Ultra Castor. Half gallon of each. I then add a small amount of nitro or blendzall octane boost with castor to thin it
up safe for injection systems. This mix has the classic original techniplate Klotz soap smell of the Kart track,combined with
the benol smell of the motorcycle track, combined with the classic blendzall racetrack pure castor smell of any racetrack
combined with the slight smell of model airplane nitro fuel. There is nothing like it in the world. Smells like all the racetracks
at the same time and model airplanes. Smoke? Suprisingly this mixture does not smoke(after warmup) even at 20:1 ratios.
Spooge? Once again, suprised this concoxion burns clean with zero spooge. This is $125 dollar oil. Oil does not get any better
than this.
Note: If mixing your own oils, check cc output of oil pump for
proper flow rate while running premix in the tank.
RZ to Banshee Cylinder Conversion Info.
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