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Everything you need to know about suspension set up click HERE.
DIY BRAKE BLEEDING
Beer Can motorcycle brake bleeding works everytime while others scratch
their heads for hours trying to bleed their brakes.
Materials Needed:
Small Chair
Can of Beer
Clear hose
Brake fluid with extra empty brake fluid bottle
Shop rag with a bottle of cleaner
The wrench that fits your caliper's bleed nipple
Tools to remove caliper
Chunk of thin strong wood, smaller screw driver with thin handle etc..
SAFETY GOGGLES!!! A shot of fluid in the eye might blind you!
Drink a 12oz. can of beer while you remove the caliper that needs bleeding. When you have removed the caliper from the
bike set it on the chair next to the bike with the nipple facing up(brake line still attached). Finish drinking the beer and
stomp the can on the ground. Take the piece of wood or smaller screwdriver plastic handle and wedge it between the brake pads
to spread them apart a bit. Dont use metal. If they don't want to spread with minimal force loosen the bleed valve nipple
a tad. Then GENTLY spread them. Watch out for a squirt out of the bleed valve when you spread them. Use the shop rag and cleaner
to wipe any fluid up on the spot. Dont spread them all the way! Just spread them an 1/8th inch out compared to disc width.
Now shove the Beer can between the pads. Just get part of the can shoved between the pads, not all of it.
Now, fill the master cylinder to full spec. Now fill the empty brake fluid bottle half way full. Now attach one end of
the clear hose from the bleed valve nipple on the caliper. Put the other end of the hose in the half full brake fluid bottle
ON THE GROUND. Make sure the end in the half full bottle is submerged. Ok we are rady to bleed. Make sure bleed nipple is
in snug/tight closed position.
1.Pump Brake lever 4 times and hold down(tight/on).
2.While brake is held down, loosen bleed nipple for 3 seconds then snug it back up.
3.Release lever
Repeat steps 1 through 3 above, while all along keeping the brake fluid resevoir filled. While you are holding the pedal
and loosening the bleed valve watch the fluid and air bleed out through the clear fishtank hose or whatever you use. You may
have to repeat steps 1 through three many times. Be patient. The key is when you are bleeding LISTEN FOR THE BEER CAN CRINKLE
SOUND. When you have bleed enough where you hear the can start to crinkle up, it's time to mount the caliper and finish bleeding
it while its mounted on the disc. The can keeps the pads from squeezing too close to mount on the disk. The crinkling sound
of the beer can lets us know most of the air is bleed out of the system. The caliper is put up on the chair because air wants
to travel UP when in fluid. Having the hose running down submerged in fluid helps too. Plus it allows you to reuse the fluid
if you wanted. You could bleed for hours with calipers mounted on the bike with no results. But with the RZ350LAND beer can
brake bleeding method, bleeding takes just minutes. Just don't forget to keep topping off the fluid resevoir while bleeding.
If it runs even half way dry it can suck in air through the fluid into the system. And whatever you do, dont let off the brake
while the bleed valve is open.
CHAIN RK X Ring Chain. I will never use chain lube again. A chain
you can keep cleaned/oiled like a gun instead of a chain(Wd 40). Worth the 80 dollars even if performance difference
is minimal.
TIRES:
My RZ came with Dunlop tires. They were like riding in the rain. I don't know what their problem was. There were not worn,
they were just very unstable it seemed. Then I tried a NEW set of Bridgestone BT-45's in stock sizes. What an improvement!
Overall a great tire, but they do have a problem compared to a more expensive tire as I will conclude. Then I tried a set
of Metzlers ME-33 Lasers! They made the BT-45's seem like the Dunlops. Why? Because the BT-45's are hard to get warm. They
are like riding in the rain untul they are warm. Also, when the temp. outside is 50 degrees F. or lower with the BT-45's,
you will never get them warm enough to grip. DANGER! The Metzlers warm up nice compared to the BT's in moderate temps. In
warm/hot temps the Metzlers stick like glue compared to the other 2 tire brands. Conclusion: That extra 30 bucks or more you
pay for each tire makes one hell of a difference. The BT-45's are a good tire but alot of hype as far as STREET performance
goes. I have felt the front end slightly try to wash with the BT-45's but never with the Metzlers. You can
feel the difference when you ride every day. Update: After another season of fall riding I conclude any of these tires are
slick as hell below 50F degree temps. You can ride your daily routine and brake hard at the bottom of the same hill in
the summer and expect the same results. Try the same daily ritual below 50F degree temps and get a lesson in ice skating.
I believe that cold tires have less traction then warm tires in the rain when it comes to braking traction.
SWINGARM BUSHINGS:(Rd350 ypvs F2 parts Rear suspension arm bush (to swinging
arm) size (metric) = 24mm diam, 18mm bore, 30mm length. Bowman ref 18/24 x L oillube metric plain bearing, )
BOLT ON BRAKES for 86-95 RZ/RD350 the four pot calipers off a v-twin TZR250
or an FZR400 (3TJ model) bolt straight on to F1/F2
Rear Wheel Bearings for FZ600
swingarm with stock wheel. The bearings are 6004 2rs. The 6004 is the size, the 2rs is 2 seals. You can get them
at any bearing supplier or industrial supplier. I have found Mcmaster Carr has the best price and always has inventory. I
think their website is mcmaster.com.
6301 front wheel bearings (stock)(12mm ID, 37mm OD, 12mm W)
6302
rear wheel bearings (stock)(15mm ID, 42mm OD, 13mm W)
plus a 6304 bearing for the rear wheel's cush drive
Tapered Roller Bearings(STEERING)
Upper = 25 x 48 x 13mm Lower = 30 x 48 x 13mm PARTS PLUS part # SSY125
F4i Shock Conversion for RZ350
Yep did it to mine 85 KR. $20 for an ebay shock, $7 for adapter bushings from McMasterCarr. 2 hours time,
1 large arbor press. The freak'n cheapest mod I've done so far! Talk about bang for your buck. You even get to reuse the bolts.
I took great pleasure in ripping out that stock junker!
It raised the rear about 1", the center stand is a little wobblie. Much stiffer but I weigh in at 220lbs so
for me the ride is nice. Spring rates, don't notice, don't care. McMaster catalog
20mm id x 24mm od, width 20mm
Bronze bushing approx. $3.43ea, last time i ordered them
PN 6658K44
You will need 2 qty. press out the F4
bottom bearing and replace with the bushings, reuse the seals, the top already fits. Reuse RZ bolts. The tough part is finding
a place and method to mount the remote reservor.
Fork Emulation Install Directions!!!
I installed
Race Tech Cartridge Emulators in my '85 when I rebuilt my forks. I thought they seemed a bit pricey for something you can
put in your pocket but my dealer's parts guy had some in his race RZ and recommended them. The improvement in front end control
and feedback was terrific, with a better ride to boot. I've seen a few posts asking for the required mods so I am posting
what I got from Race Tech, who were very helpful. They also have a neat bike setup calculator on their website which is worth
a look.
1. Disassemble forks and remove damping rods.
2. Remove inner sleeve from damping rods. This tube is
a press fit into the large end of the damping rod and must be driven out with a brass drift through the threaded hole at the
bottom. Take care not to damage the outer tube while doing this. Toss the inner sleeve.
3. The four rebound holes near
the top of the rod must be BRAZED shut and filed/sanded flush with the tube surface. Keep in mind a seal runs over this so
make it nice. Do not be tempted to weld them as the extra heat may distort things and you cannot hand finish the harder weld
without getting into the rod surface. I own a spare set of used forks with no damping rods as a result of being able to share
this point with you. Also clean up any braze that got into the inside of the tube.
4. Drill one new 5/64" (2mm) hole 1¼"
(32mm) from the bottom of the damping rod head. Deburr the hole inside and out.
5. Drill the compression holes at the bottom
of the rod out to ¼" (6mm) and drill 2 new compression holes 10mm above the original ones and perpendicular to them when looking
at the end of the rod. Again, deburr the holes. Reassemble the forks as normal, emulators under the spring.
They recommend 2 turns of preload on the emulator springs as a starting point and don't forget to subtract
the height of the emulator from your preload spacer. This seems like a lot of work, but this is as good as it gets without
replacing the front end. They also now sell low friction replacement bushings which would help too. Hope this answers any
questions anyone might have had.
In Reply to: Race Tech Emulators posted by RZbill on September 12, 2000 at 17:51:27:
The emulators are little valves that sit under the springs. You need to take out the damping rods and weld
up the compression holes, then you drill new holes that are larger for more oil flow. The race tech kit has all the instructions
and dimensions written clearly in the instruction sheets. If You don't have welding experience, Take it to someone that does.
The emulators them selves have a screw adjustment that will tighten or loosen the flow valves for damping control. To adjust
them is pretty simple, You take off the fork cap, pull out the springs and then use a bent up coat hanger or welding rod and
hook them right out. Turn the screw in for more damping, Out for less. This mod is about the closeset thing to actual "cartridge"
style forks you are going to find. I think the emulators cost around $130 for the pair. I got mine through Lockhart-Phillips.
They do not list them in the latest catalog, But they do have them. Race-Tech part number for the RZ 350 is FEGV S3301. I
use Race-Tech US-2 suspension fluid(recomended).Race-Tech also has a great technical service team, They will answer ANY questions
you might have about their products.
Popular FZ600 Swingarm Mod.
You are correct. The FZ600 arm can be used with some modification but you MUST MODIFY the linkage to allow
for proper ride height and linkage postion. I used a swingarm from a 1988 FZ600 and the stock linkage from my 1984RZ350. The
linkage arm between the frame and the shock (called the dogbone by some) need to tbe the stock RZ350 item with no modifications.
The right and left side linkage arms need to have 30mm removed from the center of each of them to shorten them to the correct
length to work with the FZ600 swingarm. You will notice that on the FZ600 swingarm that the linkage arm mount to the bottom
edge of the arm while on the RZ they mount more to the center of the arm in relationship from top to bottom. This is why I
removed the 30mm's. By doing the above I was able to use the stock RZ shock with no other modifications.
Again this is all based on a swingarm from a FZ600 and not any other "FZ" or "FZR".
R6 Front End Conversion.
I put an R6 front on my RZ and it was really easy.
Here you go.
Press the stem out of the R6 lower clamp.
Machine the ring groove about 7-8mm up the stem. Press the
stem back in so now it is 7-8mm shorter. Put a 4mm spacer or thrust washer down to the bottom of the stem and press on a lower
RZ tapered roller bearing.
Put the front end on the bike. You will need another RZ lower tapered roller bearing to put
on the top as the R6 has a 30mm shaft for its full length.
It is really easy!
Way easier than an FZR
I got a Hagon shock from www.davequinnmotorcycles.com for
my 84RZ. Did not have a chance to install and try-out yet, but it looks good. Has adjustable pre-load and a linked adjustable
compression and rebound damping for $335.00 USD.
FZR 400
Swinger With Stock YPVS Wheel
Quote: i have done the fzr400 (3en2 model)swingarm and
wheel conversion the diamond section one, the 3tj also has diamond section (but the sides look flatter) the 3tj takes a 160
rear tyre so moving the chain would be a must. the 3en2 takes a 140 and needed 4mm per side narrowing at the pivot to fit
the YPVS frame then 10mm machining off the cush drive and a set of custom linkages machining. i also ran a std ypvs rear wheel
in it that required a 10mm spacer each side of the wheel. the 3en1 swingarm i believe is also a 140 section but is an overbraced
design. note 3tj 4pot sumitomo's bolt straight on to ypvs front end and work well , though i eventually fitted the rest of
a 3tj front end
These Models use the same Front rotors as the RZ
SRX250 87
XS400 82-83
FJ600 84-85
FZ600 86-88
FZ700/FZX 86-87
XJ700
86-87
FZ750 85-89
XV1100 88-99
YX600 RADIAN
On These models the rear discs are the Same as RZ
(RZ front and rear are the same)
FZ750 90-92
XV750
93-99
FZR1000 87-88
FZR1000 94-96
Standard RZ front discs are 267mm.
BELOW: conversion info lost when 2stroke.cc went down.
Honda 900RR - 97
Front into a RD/RZ
Thanks to Jamie for this one.
The swap is simple, the steering stem needs to be changed over. Grind
the welds off both stems. RZ / CBR until you see the witness line ( the line were the too metals meet). press out both stems
and weld the RZ stem in the CBR lower triple clamp. You need to use tapered
roller bearings,
so you will have to measure up to make sure the bearings will seat
properly,before you run out of threads.
Use a quality weld, like TIG, and definitely have a pro do it if you are a novice
welder.(dont want your forks to fall off at 140 MPH do you?).You will have to shim between the upper clamp and the stem because
the CBR stem hole is bigger,
I used a piece of stainless feeler gage.
Honda 900RR - 98 Front into a RD/RZ
The front end from the 98RR is NOT the same as the 97and earlier RR's. The clamps from 98- are Aluminium.
It's almost
a bolt on no welding or cutting into the stem or
clamps requierd. Ths is the front i am using for my latest
RD Project,
see picture below. -Viking
FZR600 Front End
This is a quite common and easy mod to pull off.
Have a decent machine shop swap the steering stem for you.Weld the
RZ/RD stem into the FZR bottom triple clamp. Use a quality weld like TIG and get tapered bearings.Thats about it. Anyone got a Picture
of this ?
Honda CBR600F2 -93 Front End
Thanks to Tod (tkm433) for this info.
I decided to use the swing arm from a 1988 Yamaha FZ600 and
the wheels and fork assembly from a 1993 Honda
CBR600F2.
For the front end of the bike I want it to be known that I am
using tapered roller bearing from my RZ350. I believe these bearing can be ordered from any of the company that cater to the RZ350 or any good motorcycle dealer parts department.
The bearings that the stock RZ350 fork uses are 25x48x13 for the
upper and 30x48x13 for the lower.
The first number refers to the
inner diameter of the bearing; the second to the outer diameter
and finally the third
is the height of the bearing.
There are some differences between the RZ350 and the
CBR600F2 fork assemblies that need to be overcome for the
conversion to work. First the steerer tube of the Honda
fork is a
little bit longer than that of the RZ350,
which is
actually better than being shorter. Second the Honda's
steerer tube diameter is larger for the upper bearing than that
on
the RZ's fork. Third, the steering stops located on the lower triple
clamp of the Honda are in a different location
than the ones on
the RZ's fork assembly and finally the stock Honda handlebars
do not have the room needed to properly
install the
RZ's stock hardware.
To overcome these problems are fairly easy.
As for the length of the steerer tube it does not pose a problem.
This was overcome by the use of a spacer under the lower
bearing that would also allow the use of the stock RZ's lower
dirt seal found on the RZ's stock fork. The spacer need to be
30mm inside diameter to fit the steerer tube and of
the same
height and outside diameter of the lower lip that the seal
attaches on the RZ fork. This space will take
up the needed
space on the steerer tube to keep from the head tube of the
frame from rubbing the top of the lower triple
clamp of the
Honda fork assembly.
The second issue was over come by machining the inner
diameter of the bearing out to the 26mm needed to
fit the Honda
fork. If you wanted to check your local bearing supply they
might have a taper bearing of the size needed
to do the job
without machining the bearing. You would need a 26x48x13 or
something that had a 26mm inner and 48mm
outer diameter.
The height could be in a range from 13-16 or 17mm if such a bearing does exist.
As for the steering stops they need to be removed form the
Honda's lower triple and new ones added to
keep from the
handlebars hitting the fuel tank in a fall. Also if new stops are
not added to the lower triple the fork
tubes could also be
damaged in a fall. It might be possible to keep or modify the
steering stops on the lower triple
of the Honda if the stock stops
on the head tube of the RZ350 are
modified to allow the
proper steering movement.
With some modification the stock RZ ignition switch can be
mounted to the upper triple of the Honda fork
assembly to give
the bike a factory look.
You will lose the use of the steering lock due to the new angle
of the
ignition switch. Some sort of a bracket will need to be
made to allow the use of the gauge cluster. On the CBR600F2
the
gauges are not mounted to the fork, as is the case on the
RZ350.
The handle bar issue was solved by the use of aftermarket
clip-on bars by Pro-Flo. They have replaceable
bar if needed in
case of a fall and they have the room needed to allow the stock
RZ controls to be used on the conversion.
I decided to use the CBR600F2 brake master cylinder on the
conversion to keep the same lever feel
as the CBR.
The CBR600F2 master cylinder has a 1/2inch bore while the RZ
is stamped 5/8. I do not know if that would
make much of a
difference but it is a difference that I feel needs to be noted.
Also I lost the use of a mirror mount
on the CBR lever assembly.
Only an issue if the bike is to be used on the road unless mirrors
can be mounted on the
fairing.
Yamaha FZF600 -95 Front End
Thanks to Mike for this info. Here's a shot of the front end in place.
I didn't like the position
of the clip-ons (YZF) so I made up riser mounts for Daytona style
bars. I've also added 6
pot front calipers. I'm going to trim the
YZF fender to look like an RZ unit and stay with the
84 bodywork. (more text
below picture) I got a hold of a 95 YZF600 (not an R-6) front end, and wheel assembly. It was a relatively straight forward
swap - I end milled the welds off the steering stems, pressed them out and swapped them. The YZF tree then bolted right into
the RZ (with RZ tapered bearings
of course). I've since drilled the top tree to fit standard bar risers (used back-swept ones off a honda) so that I could
keep the RZ bars. I have to make up new stop tabs, weld headlight bracket mounts and steering stabilizer mounts to the lower
tree yet; and a lock tab on the steering head of the frame.
Kawasaki ZX7 -93 upside down forks
Thank's to Mike for this. For the zx7 lower triple to
fit the rz steering head I was
going to turn a piece of stock on a lathe and weld it to
the rz stem them put it into
the zx triple.
I took the triple to a local machine shop to get the
zx stem pressed out.
Two days later I picked
up the triple and they had
pressed the stem out the wrong way and totally stripped
out the triple. Take your stuff
to a shop that knows and
deals with bikes, these guys didn't even know there was
a clip in there holding the stem
in. They just pressed it
out through the top. They even took a torch too it and
destroyed the finish. I have since
made myself a press! So I took the triple to Vector machining ltd.
(http://www.vectormachining.com) and talked to Al.
Al is a Ducati lover. Al fixed me up by machining the
stripped out hole in the triple and turning
a new stem to
fit in both the zx triple and the rz steering head, and the
price was more than reasonable. The upper
triple I cut
the zx ignition switch mount off and welded on the rz
mount then turned the surface down on a lathe.
That
worked out nice but it was a job to get the steering
lock to line up. The rest was easy.
Fitting the rz instruments
will take some work but that will come this winter
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